6272716
9781845130084
This text is part travelogue, part inner autobiography, part cultural exploration - about why we surf, and what surfing does to us. Fiona Capp traces the sport's origins back to a time when the earliest Pacific peoples learned to walk on water, and establishes when Enlightenment Europe first discovered its exhilarating appeal.Fiona Capp is the author of 'That Oceanic Feeling: A Surfer's View of the World', published 2004 under ISBN 9781845130084 and ISBN 1845130081.
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